Campbell Mattinson Wine Front. This is a wine of personality and length. It’s excellent. It’s all roasted nuts and brine, oyster shells and lemonade-and-lime, the textural element high, the aromatics too. It sees quite a bit of skin contact, in its making, and to me at least it feels a bit oxidative too, in a good, gently sherried way. But the core of fruit remains fresh, energetic and vibrant, and it boasts fantastic length. 94 Points.

Marcus Ellis Halliday Wine Companion.: From the Hilltop and Lanark vineyards; 80% on skins for 90 days, with the remainder pressed to barrel; aged in old oak for 10 months. Briny and citric, with preserved lemon, sel gris and candied lime pith, along with some pistachio and green cardamom. It’s also herbal, with notes of fresh bay, myrtle, cypress and dried mint. The skins add grip, of course, but it sits beneath rather than dominating, layering a fine sandiness with the briny acidity, giving this sapid drive. 93 Points