MARCUS ELLIS HALLIDAY: About 65% fermented in demi-muids and held on skins for 90 days. There’s something engagingly primal about this midweight wine, joyously grapey, feeling of skins, pulp and stems, but that’s all delivered in a savoury vein, a little time in bottle no doubt enhancing that fact. Griotte cherries, roast chestnut and crushed autumn leaves also feature across a wine that does the job gamay or pinot may do in a different region. 91 POINTS

CAMPBELL MATTINSON WINE FRONT: There’s little doubt that this is an interesting wine, in the lighter vein, with character inherent. It’s meaty and sweet-soured and tonic-like in a ripe-fruited way. Its low alcohol helps to give it a vibe of refreshment first, interest second. It’s not stemmy or green or twiggy or any of those things, but it still smells and tastes of-the-garden, and the whispers here of roasted nuts are suitable complements. It’s a fun wine but it’s also a wine for the thoughtful. 91 POINTS